A Week in Louisville, Kentucky
When I initially starting sharing our upcoming vacation plans with friends and family the first look I got was confusion followed by “why Kentucky?”.
That answer was pretty easy for me, after 2 years of no vacation and feeling exhausted, I didn’t want another week where I had to fight crowds, drag luggage, or be guilted into over committing my time with activities. I wanted a trip where I wouldn’t feel bad if I spent one whole day curled up reading a book. So J and I took the 3.5 hour drive north into horse and bourbon country for a 5 day stay.
I feel like Kentucky is a missed gem when it comes to southern vacation spots. Louisville especially with its rich horse culture, luxury accommodation choices, diverse food scene, British/French antiques, and now a surge in the bourbon market (with collectors coming from all over the world). I was asked for my personal opinion on when to visit and hands down that has to be in the fall. The weather is perfect, bugs are non-existent, crowds are minimal, and last minute reservations are more attenable. Plus I wanted the changing trees so our planned vacation was the last full week of October, Monday the 24th until Friday the 28th.
Accommodations
I have to confess that I had visited Louisville, Kentucky 18 years ago so I knew exactly where I wanted to stay based off of the previous trip, The Inn at Woodhaven. The Inn at Woodhaven bed and breakfast is centrally located without being in the fast paced part of Louisville.
This trip we decided the Rose Cottage was the room we wanted to stay in. Separated from the main house and a stand alone from the carriage house the Rose Cottage only holds one main room. The outside has a porch with seating and two sliding glass doors. Perfect for reading a book, enjoying a delicious breakfast (which you can order ahead of time) or trying a glass of bourbon late at night.
Other room amenities include (in the bathroom) a separate tub/shower, travel sized toiletries like shampoo, conditioner, and body wash, hair dryer, make up designated towels, bubble bath and bath salts. (in the room) a mini fridge, Electric tea kettle with tea, mini Keurig with coffee pods, sugar, stir sticks, and creamer. Mini Kitchen with sink, snacks, glasses/mugs, and wine opener. Although not listed the tv does have a built in DVD player. All hanging clothes can be placed in one antique armoire.
The Rose Cottage at The Inn at Woodhaven
Pastries and coffee are started promptly at 7 am with a full breakfast beginning at 7:30 am. There is a great breakfast menu with items to select from, not a usual option in a bed and breakfast. I can attest that the zucchini bread, butter cake, and orange muffins were delicious. All pastries are homemade by Mark, one of the innkeepers. For entrees throughout the week I enjoyed an omelet, caramel french toast, breakfast pie, and the famous biscuits and gravy. If you decide to visit Louisville but would like separate accommodations you can still experience a breakfast in the gothic home for $20 per person with reservations 24 hours in advance.
The Inn’s dining room, located in the main house
The Inn at Woodhaven offers great additions to your stay. J’s favorite was ordering a new bourbon flight nightly so that he could try all those that are impossible to find. With 60+ bottles to choose from we were able to taste everything from Old Carter to a complete Weller taste test. The fun was reporting thoughts about taste to Jeremy, the other innkeeper, who was very knowledgeable on the subject of bourbon. If bourbon on the rocks isn’t your favorite thing Jeremy had no problem whipping up a delicious drink using ingredients unique to the area to create your personalized nightcap.
Another great way they welcome guests is to offer a cookie bar with 24/7 availability. The week we visited I was able to eat a homemade pumpkin cookie while J looked through the bourbon list and talked with Jeremy. The best part of a B&B is all of the special touches that make the stay memorable. Jeremy and Mark have created “stations” within the foyer, upstairs common area, and the formal living room that would encourage interaction and create a family environment. It is what fosters conversations over breakfast with other guests. For example, Wednesday we had four tables discussing the best places to antique shop because everyone knew we were looking for treasures during our stay.
Final Review:
The Inn at Woodhaven is probably the best Bed and Breakfast for this area. The architecture is beautiful with its nod to a gothic cathedral style. The Innkeepers and owners, Jeremy and Mark, are proud of the rich history this home holds. They are willing to share the history with you within the first few minutes of being introduced to the property (always a bonus to me). The social environment created was my favorite aspect. Jeremy and Mark are always available to make your stay the most comfortable possible. My husband, J, had a request for Zucchini bread and the next morning Mark had whipped up a loaf or two for him and the other guests. Four pieces were wrapped and set on our breakfast table, for the road, the day we left. I appreciate the great care that was given to us during our stay.
I have included a walkthrough video below. If you are interested in staying where we stayed all reservations can me made through the Inn at Woodhaven website.
Other Accommodations:
The Galt Hotel # 1-502-589-5200
The Brown Hotel # 1-502-583-1234
Chateau Bourbon # 1-502-290-6553
Bourbon Manor Bed and Breakfast Inn # 1-502-350-1010
itinerary
Monday, October 24 |Temp 81 - Arrive in Louisville, Kentucky | Churchill Downs
Tuesday, October 25 | Temp 74 - Hiking with Picnic Lunch, Massage
Wednesday, October 26 | Temp 63 - Antique Shopping
Thursday, October 27 | Temp 59 - Bourbon Trail
Friday, October 28 | Temp 65 - Country French Antiques | Depart Louisville, Kentucky
J’s List of Things to Do:
Experience the Bourbon trail which includes shopping for everything bourbon (including local liquor stores)
Eat a Kentucky Brown
Enjoy a “smoked” bourbon
Spend some time outdoors
K’s List of Things to Do:
Churchill Downs
Antique Shopping
Find and buy a couple bottles of Ghia
Enjoy a seasonal event (Hoping for Waverly Hills Santorum tickets)
Where to Eat
I could bore you with lots to read on our favorite restaurants, but instead I decided to create a list with a little commentary:
Upscale Dining
Equus & Black Rabbit 122 Sears Ave. Louisville, KY 40207
What to Order - Verlasso Salmon with Pumpkin Puree and a Celery Root Sweet Potato Succotash. Pot Roast with Whipped Potatoes, Shitake Mushrooms, Pearl Onions, and Bordelaise.
Swizzle Restaurant in The Galt Hotel 140 N 4th St. Louisville, KY 40202
What to Order - Famous Smoked Old Fashion, Shot from their exclusive and extensive bourbon selection| 3 Cheese Ravioli with Porcini Mushrooms, Gruyere Fondue, and White Truffle Oil | Prime Rib with fully loaded baked potato | Wedge Salad with cucumber & peppercorn ranch dressing, bleu cheese, hot honey candied bacon, fried onions, and herbs | Pineapple Upside Down Cake for Dessert
Proof on Main 702 W Main St. Louisville, KY 40202
What to Order - Country Fried Rabbit, Parmesan Dumplings, Kabocha Squash, Sauce Charcuterie | Charred Octopus (to share)
Honorable Mentions:
Repeal Oak Fired Steakhouse 101 W Main St. Unit 101, Louisville, KY 40202
La Chasse 1359 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY 40204
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Casual Dining
J. Graham’s Cafe at The Brown Hotel 335 W Broadway, Louisville, KY 40202
What to Order - Hot Brown | Derby Pie for Dessert
Honorable Mentions:
La Bodeguita de Mima 725 E Market St. Louisville, KY 40202
Taco Luchador 4 Locations Baxter Ave. | St. Matthews | Jeffersontown | Colonial Gardens
Dining Tip: Majority of these restaurants will need reservations. Make all reservations through the OpenTable app.
Petite Hot Brown at the famous Brown Hotel
Recipe from The Brown Hotel website
Where to Shop
Antique Shops:
Mellwood Antiques
Fleur de Flea
Antiques Attic (20 min drive outside of Louisville) New Albany, IN
Architectural Salvage
Middletown Peddlers Mall
Justin’s House of Bourbon
Retail Shopping:
Restoration Hardware Outlet - The Outlet Shoppes of the Bluegrass: 1155 Buck Creek Road Simpsonville, KY 40067
Bourbon Retail Shopping:
Justin’s House of Bourbon: (2 Locations) 601 W Main St. Lexington, KY 40508, 101 W. Market St. Louisville, KY 40202
Bourbon Creek: Oxmoor Center - 7900 Shelbyville Rd. Louisville, KY 40222
Total Wine & More: 5067 Shelbyville Rd. Louisville, KY 40207
bourbon trail
The amount of information I have on the bourbon trail could be a lengthy separate post on its own. However, I won’t bore you. Here are 7 tips:
1. I don’t care what other plans you have. If Buffalo Trace is on your list go there first, be there early and well before they open. We stood in some of the longest lines, seriously they could have rivaled Disney. However, daily, the selection of bourbon changes (and an expert shared, sells out by noon). The day we went it was Blanton’s sold at around $60 a bottle. Friday was E.H. Taylor (this hurt my husbands heart when he saw this at 11 am, sitting on our couch). You are allowed one bottle per person per type so for example, the day we went one person could get one bottle of Blanton’s, Buffalo Trace, Wheatley Vodka, and Bourbon Cream. Any combination or all but only one bottle. We chose to bring home one bottle of Blanton’s each. The souvenirs were extensive. Some of my favorites were the bar mats, Hats, Blanton’s Candles, Stickers, Mugs, and Christmas Ornaments. We skipped the tours, it was sold out well before we ever arrived in Louisville.
2. GO. TO . CASTLE & KEY. Seriously. The grounds are absolutely beautiful. The branding is incredible and for someone who can appreciate great marketing I had to show great restraint from buying the whole fall Barbour line they offered. I grabbed a Castle & Key t-shirt, sticker for my water bottle, a bottle of the wheated bourbon, and a bottle of Gin. I am not even a gin drinker but the Harvest label was so pretty I bought it anyway. It might sit on my formal living room desk forever… but it’s so pretty I’m not sorry. You could grab a drink at their bar without a tour so I enjoyed a Paloma with J around the fire pit.
3. Skip Old Forester in Downtown Louisville. I don’t know if there is another location but everything about it was disappointing. Unless you are a huge fan I’d add somewhere different to my list.
4. Old Carter should be on your trail (but it’s not listed). We made the grave mistake of finding out about this bourbon too late in the game and missed the opportunity to make an appointment. We spent the rest of our trip looking for Old Carter but never found it. J did get to try a shot and out of all the bourbons he tried Old Carter is the one he still talks about today.
5. It wasn’t high on our list but if you want the whole “dip your own bottle” experience definitely go to Makers Mark.
6. Want to learn how to make a few cocktails with the bourbon you just bought? Take a class with Prohibition Craft Spirits Distillery & Prohibition Bar. Cocktail classes cost $63.60 per person and you will make three cocktails with the help of their leading craft bartender.
7. Last tip, add Stitzel-Weller distillery to your itinerary. They are the makers of Blade and Bow Bourbon and the host of the only Garden & Gun Cocktail Club in Louisville, KY. Here’s a fun fact… the name “Weller” might throw you off. After all Weller bourbon is very hard to find and can almost have a cult like following. That’s because in the 1980’s Stitzel-Weller had to sell their Weller brand to stay afloat in the 1980’s when the bourbon market went almost extinct. Today Weller is owned by Buffalo Trace, which is owned by Sazerac Rye.
Castle & Key Distillery
Churchill Downs
Churchill Downs on Kentucky Derby day has always been a bucket list event and location for me. I love horse racing but there is nothing in the world like Kentucky Derby day. This year I was blown away by Rich Strikes win, an 80-1 odd, so I knew something commemorating this years derby had to come home with me.
I also had the goal of drinking a legit, Mint Julep at the famous horse track. Here’s how our time went…
We walked through the doors and were immediately greeted by the smiling staff. J and I purchased two wristbands for the Churchill Downs tour. We spent only a few minutes in the gift shop before meeting at the center of the museum for a 360 degree movie. It was an informative and fun way of experiencing what a derby day looks like on the famous grounds. After the movie our tour guide came to collect our sizable group for a little history and access to the sand racetrack. Once completed we made a beeline for the mint juleps and a hot brown panini. The very last thing we did was tour the museum full of interactive exhibits, great works of art, and fabulous memorabilia.
The gift shop needs a separate paragraph. It was the only part I wasn’t completely thrilled with. The entire place was fairly picked over. All the Vineyard Vines shirts were gone, lots of hats had not been restocked, and the ladies behind the counter weren’t the best of help. I was ready to spend an entire paycheck but I ended up finding maybe $100 or so of things I really wanted to take home. I did walk out with a Rich Strike t-shirt, a Churchill Downs sticker for my water bottle, a pair of fun Mint Julep earrings, and a Kentucky Derby Christmas ornament. Anything else I wanted had to be ordered and shipped to my home from their online store. So I purchased a shirt for C and a Mint Julep/Kentucky Derby ballcap for myself. I am chalking up this lack of derby souvenirs to timing. Maybe this is just an awful time to purchase this years swag for a derby that was done in the spring. I don’t know, but I can tell you my disappointment was apparent as J said my face was scrunched up the entire time. Guess I would be terrible at poker :)
OTHER FUN THINGS TO DO
In Room Massage: The Inn at Woodhaven has a Licensed Massage Therapist on call. Her name is Tammy McHale and when you book this experience thru the Inn at Woodhaven reservations website, Jeremy will send you her contact information and instructions on payment. Just make sure the room you book can hold a massage table comfortably.
Hike with a Picnic: Sadly, we weren’t able to go on our hike due to several factors. We did order a picnic basket from The Inn at Woodhaven which had chicken wraps, lemonade, apples with homemade pumpkin dipping sauce, mini bags of kettle chips, and cannoli’s. I asked that a bottle of red also be added. While Jon handled a crisis over the phone in Honduras we ate our lunch in our room. Where we planned to hike was Mammoth Cave National Park, about 1.5 hours away from the Inn. They have several trails listed with a map and the miles you could hike. Because Mammoth Cave is only a couple hours away we have plans to go back next year with our pup, Killian.
Something Scary: Have you ever heard of Waverly Hills? It’s history started as a one room schoolhouse for Major Thomas H. Hays daughters in 1883. The Tuberculosis Hospital kept the name after purchasing the land and opening up a sanatorium. The building was originally built to house 40-50 tuberculosis patients but with tuberculosis being an epidemic the little clinic held more than 140 people. Patients who were admitted were never allowed to leave, creating a “village”. The sanatorium that stands today was opened October 20, 1926. The hospital closed after 1961 when an antibiotic was discovered. In 1962 the building was renovated and turned into a nursing home known as Woodhaven Medical. The state finally closed the geriatric facility in 1981.
An event at the top of my list was to experience a two hour tour at Waverly Hills Sanatorium. Sadly, this wasn’t in the cards for us. The haunted Halloween tour is only available Friday’s and Saturday’s from 8 pm to midnight. Our stay begins on a Monday and concludes on a Friday. Regular daytime tours were also an option and available during the week, unfortunately other plans were made. However, if I ever make it back to Louisville this time of the year I will make an effort to plan my vacation with a weekend included. All information on the Sanatorium can be found at therealwaverlyhills.com
